SIEM RIEP

I parted ways with the girls and made my way to the 18 hour bus ride. Neils, Paul, Tanya, and Dan (from the motorbike crew) where there too, but Neils was the only one heading to Siem Reap for the moment. We had to transfer buses mid way through and he kindly let me take the last available seat, while they pulled out a child-size plastic chair for him and a couple of other people and put them on the aisle. Got in late at night, the bus station was dark and I was still half asleep. We ended up joining a couple of Germans with Bastian and Eveline who had booked a hostel already. It turned out to be a 3 star hotel, we were greeted with water, cold towels, and snacks as we would be greeted every time we entered the lobby. The room was massive it had AC, TV (with cable!), candy, free toothbrush & comb, all rare commodities that backpackers don't often get. All for $15 per room (for 2), with breakfast included.

The next day we slept in and Niels and I got bikes and ventured into traffic. It was CRAZY. Cars, bikes and tuk tuks going in all directions. It was a 2 lane street turned into 8 lanes of alternating traffic. INSANE. We made it to the park where all the main ruins are and decided to do the large circuit. Before I go into the details of the temples I think Angkor deserves a bit of an introduction. The archeological park contains the remains of the magnificent Khmer Empire. The temples were built between the 9th- 15th centuries and the main temple (which ill get to later) is Angkor Wat, is one of the 7 world wonders. The first temple that we reached was Banteay Kdei, which used to be a monastic complex.









Then, Pre Rup, which was quite the climb, but provided a great view of the jungle and country side surroundings. 



Eastern Mebon which used to be located on an island (now dried out), known for the elephant statues.



Ta Som where a little girl around 6 years old came up to us and counted to 10 in 6 different languages so we would buy bracelets from her. 10 for $1 was the main message but after being hassled by so many vendors you get used to saying no. The other main tag line they used was "if you buy, you buy from me, okay?" (never say yes... )



Krol ko





Preah Khan which was the first capital (before angkor wat). Here, there were 2 entrances, and well... we went through the 'wrong'one if there is such thing so we had to walk quite a bit. We could see the main temple in the distance and after seeing so many, you start to get lazy, but we bet a beer, if it was awesome enough id win... and guess what? it was most definitively worth the walk :)





We had saved the best for last: Ta Phrom, where Tomb Raider was filmed. We entered as bus loads were leaving. We had the whole thing to ourselves! it was dark and eerie, as they have let nature take over this temple in particular. A few steps in a guard stopped us and told us they were closing because it was getting too dark :s ... disappointment. We had a drink (he owed me) and started making our way back to the hotel. But on the way, rain, and lots of it. It was incredibly refreshing and kinda fun but we got soaked on out 4k's back. That night, Tan, Paul, and Dan joined us and along with Bastian and Eveline we went out for dinner. we had a Khmer bbq: 

snake, crocodile, frog lets, beef and shrimp which you cooked yourself on a grill like plate in the middle of the table. What a feast!


The next morning we were up before sunrise and in the darkness we made our way to Angkor Wat. We sat on a carpet at the foot of the pond in front of the temple and watched as the sun came out. It was so peaceful and beautiful despite the crowd . The reflection on the water among the lotus flowers.







I went inside alone, and it was just incredible, the carving, the details, the size of it all. No wonder its one of the finest monument of the world.


After, we went to visit the rest of the temples in the main complex. Fist was my favourite, Bayon, which is filled with massive stone faces. To be precise, there are are 54 towers of four faces each which makes a total of  216 faces. 



Then Baphuon which was initially supposed to represent a sacred hindi mountain, Mount Meru. However, a Buddah was added as the region converted from  Hinduism to Buddhism.

Then the elephant terrace and the terrace of the leper king and Tomb Raider which was a lot bigger than it seemed in the first day. It was like out of a fairy tail. Trees growing everywhere, fallen walls, small passages. Out of a dream. After that, we were pretty templed out so we saw a couple other smaller temples and went back to our hotel. 

We had to rest up as it was Tanya's bday that night. When we got back to the hotel, the tuk tuk tried to charge us a bit more than we were told but we ended giving in. The manager, Mr Kim, was not okay with this. He told us he would pay us out whole $2 back... we said it was okay. So at 11:30am he pulled out a 6 pack and offered us a complementary drink that none of us could deny. He is the nicest man I've met. He even told us that the reason why he provides all the rooms (every night) with a bed time story is because he wants his guests to feel at home, and because his grandma used to tell him a bedtime story every night. Too cute haha.

That night we all went out and celebrated all night long at the famous "pub street" which was packed with foreigners despite the fact that its low season. 

The next morning Neils had to leave to Phenom Penh and I believe so did Tanya and Dan. So I was all on my own for the day. Begun by getting a fish foot massage with my complementary beer and peanuts. Then hired a very nice tuk tuk driver to take me to Banteay Srei  which is dedicated to Shiva. It had incredibly intricate carvings and half animal half human statues. Well worth the long way to get there.

Then, the landmine museum. They do a better job at explaining it than i do: http://www.cambodialandminemuseum.org/menu.html

The main lesson is that during the war, millions of landmines were dropped by the US as well as planted by the Khmer Rouge. There were so many that there aren't any maps of where they were laid out. Even today, some remain active, exploding and hurting mainly farmers and village people. When you walk in the streets this is evident as there are many people missing legs and arms. The museum is also a house for children who have been affected by landmines. It was heartbreaking. If you have time, please check the website above.