The journey begun on my 81st day of travel. I had
been warned not to do it, but like any other warning I just waved it off. I
woke up at 6:30am and noticed that the beds in the dorm had been moved around.
The floor was covered in water... everything was soaked except for my bed. So I
took it as a sign of good luck... but I may had spoken to soon. The
overcrowded minivan came to get me at 7:30am... the windy road took us from one
mountain top to the next with a mysterious air lingering all around us.
And there it was, the first sign... we had to wait for half
an hour because a car was stuck in the mud, and although entertaining to see
how many men it took to get it out, we got covered in mud as well.
The minivan crew
consisted of: an older American couple, a middle-aged Spanish couple, Beca a
pastry chef from England, Andy from New Zealand who turned out to be an
incredible guitar player and some Vietnamese people including a puking girl. The poor thing did not stop throwing up
for the whole 10 hours. We got dropped off in the afternoon and had to get a
room for the night, as the minivan would continue its journey the next morning
at 5am. We roamed around town trying to find a place to eat but the best we got
were some deep fried burgers... yum :S
It was 5 am and it was pouring rain. To top it off, we had
to put our backpacks on top of the bus.... we had some new members join including a very
large mean looking French guy (I couldn't understand how he was smoking
cigarettes at that early hour) and Alex and Nicola an Irish couple.
The border crossing went just fine but the fun and games
began at 10:30am when the bus driver stopped at a small town and told us to go
“eat rice” at the only restaurant in the place.
We obediently had some rice with bamboo shoots, spring rolls and veggies. After about
an hour, we were hoping to get back on the bus and get going. I went in the bus
and fell asleep only to wake up after 45 minutes and realized that we hadn’t
moved one inch. We weren’t really sure
of what was going on but when we asked the driver he said that we had to sleep
there because the bridge was closed. The assistant driver was the only one who
spoke English and he kept walking away in the middle of asking him questions
and then laughed. We were starting to get frustrated but there was nothing we
could do ....
We sat around playing cards, drinking Beer Lao and watching the rain. We also met
Ben, a Canadian who had gotten stuck in the Vietnamese bus behind ours. The boys
all went to check what was wrong with the bridge but they came back with a
video of cars crossing the so called “closed” bridge. We were starting to get the feeling that we
were being cheated. Then, to add to it all, the assistant driver told us that
the bus was going to take us back to Vietnam the next morning... problem being
that most of us couldn’t go back to Vietnam because they have no visas on
arrival plus we had wasted 2 days traveling already.
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The "Closed" Bridge |
When we had lost all hope the Spanish couple came running
and told us that they had found a pickup truck that would take us to Muang Khua
and was waiting on the other side of the bridge. As we were getting our
backpacks the French guy took out a knife and slashed the tires of the bus.
When I got sight of what was happening I grabbed my backpack and ran for my
life.
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Our ride... |
We got on the pickup truck, all 7 of us huddling at the
back. It was still raining and we were sitting on the floor covered by a
plastic tarp like runaway refugees. We laughed off our escape and managed to
get the guitar out to lighten the mood but the road was dark and foggy. There
were landslides along the way and at one point we crossed through a river.
At 8pm we made it to the edge of our destination but there
was one more challenge.... since it was so late, the ferry was not in service
and we had to get across a huge river because all the hostels and what not were
on the other side. Eventually we found a guy who called his mom, and she
brought her canoe and helped us cross in small groups. The current was pretty
strong at it was pitch black but we managed to get everyone to the other side.
I was exhausted, the things in my backpack were wet, and we
hadn’t had any food since the 10:30 am lunch so we went out for a celebratory
group dinner after which I passed out, I couldn’t have been happier about
seeing a bed....
The next morning (3rd day of travel) we went to
the bus station early to make sure we could catch a bus out (didn’t want to get
stuck again) we needed to make sure there was room for the 8 of us. We grabbed
some pho for breakfast while the French guy downed a few beers. When the bus
came we were forced to put our backpacks on top AGAIN...but the ride was
smooth.
At noonish, we made it to Udomaxi and split ways. Ben and Andy were going to do the Gibbon Experience
and so I ended up joining them. Our next destination: Luang Nam Tha. Once there, we found some guy
who took us to Ban Don Chai a tiny village in the middle of nowhere... to see
if we could book the Gibbon Experience from there. We found the right place, it
was a little restaurant on the road, but by the time we got there, the office
was closed so we had to wait until the next morning. There was yet another
Canadian there already, her name was Katherine and she was leaving for the
Gibbon Experience the next morning but ill just have to make that a whole new
story.
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